What Is Builder Gel?
If gel polish and dip powder had a baby, it would be builder gel.
Have you caught wind of a new kind of gel in town? You’re not alone. It seems like there's always a new type of nail polish, product, manicure, or service to choose from at the nail salon. If that wasn’t confusing enough, often the same product or service goes by many different names and that's certainly the case with builder gel. If you’ve heard any of the following terms and wondered what they mean, we’re here to help:
Builder gel
Structure gel
Structured manicure
Hard gel
Sculpting gel
Sculpted manicure
Builder in a bottle
BIAB
Multi-Flex gel
Essentially each term refers to the same thing! They are all some form of builder gel. So what is it?
Builder gel is a product that can be applied to your nails to add strength and structure. It comes in clear and in an array of colors. You can add it as an extra layer of protection during a gel manicure service, or you can wear it by itself. It is slightly thicker than gel polish but is applied in a similar way and is also cured in a UV or LED lamp.
Why The Confusion?
The nail industry is notorious for confusing terminology. What products and services are called can vary depending on:
The region you are in
The salon you go to
The nail tech you talk to
The company that made the product
Trademarks and Brand Names
Different companies call similar products by different names, and sometimes those names stick. For example, SNS is just a brand of dip powder, and Shellac™ is just a brand of gel polish. When a company is first in the game or their product is very popular, the product can come to be known by its brand name (like how we call tissue Kleenex®). The term “builder in a bottle” is being used by a couple companies right now including ORLY®. All they are saying is that their particular builder gel product comes in a bottle (as opposed to say a jar, pot, or tube). The GelBottle Inc™ is a company that has trademarked BIAB™ for their builder in a bottle product. At Luster we are currently using a brand called Luminary Nail Systems, and they call their builder gel product Multi-Flex Gel.
Hard Gel Versus Soft Gel
It helps to think of hard gel in relation to soft gel. (Remember that the term hard gel can be used interchangeably with the term builder gel). Most of us are familiar with gel polish. It’s nail polish that will stay on your nails for 10 days to 2 weeks or more, as opposed to traditional nail polish which doesn’t typically last as long. But gel polish doesn’t prevent your nails from bending and breaking. Enter the hero: hard gel. Hard gel is in the same family as soft gel, but the molecules are closer together, creating strength and structure. As a bonus, it will stay on longer than soft gel - 2 ½ to 3 weeks or more.
The History of Hard Gel
Just like acrylic, it is said that hard gel was first discovered and used by dentists. I remember getting hard gel on my nails as far back as over 20 years ago. I had realized right away that I preferred hard gel to acrylic on my nails and had been using it exclusively for years. When I moved to the US from Canada in 2007 I was shocked to discover that no one seemed to have heard of it, and nobody was offering the service. Introducing this product to the market was a big motivator in opening a salon for me. I wanted people to be able to try this product that in my opinion, was the best.
Initially hard gel could not be soaked off. If you wanted to remove it, it would have to be filed off. This isn’t always ideal for the client or the nail technician. But in recent years many companies have released hard gel that can be soaked off. It’s best to ask whether the hard gel you are getting can be soaked off or not, as there are still hard gel products on the market that are not soakable. There’s nothing wrong with a traditional hard gel that won’t soak off, but it can be tedious to remove and it’s good to know your options. A soakable hard gel is likely a better choice unless your nail tech specifically recommends a traditional hard gel.
Builder Gel Versus Dip Powder
Dip powder definitely had a moment in recent years and many people still swear by it. It’s important to remember that dip powder is still acrylic powder, just applied in a different way. Usually people love dip powder because it prevents their nails from bending and breaking, which helps them grow out their natural nails, and it stays on longer than gel polish. When people don’t like dip powder it’s usually because it’s too thick and it can crack. At Luster Nail Parlour, we like to say that if gel polish and dip powder had a baby, it would be builder gel. It combines the best elements of both. You get protection from bending and breaking, that feels more like gel polish on your nails, but lasts longer.
Builder Gel Versus Gel Polish
While these products are in the same family, they are not created equal. Think of gel polish like regular polish, except that it will be dry immediately, and it will stay on longer. For many people, this is enough. It may not protect your nails from bending and breaking, but if you keep your nails short or your nails are naturally strong, this won’t be an issue. But if gel polish doesn’t work for you, or you need more help growing out your natural nails, builder gel is a great choice. It will also stay on even longer than gel polish. (Some people prefer to have their nails done every 2 weeks anyway because they don’t like to see too much grow out of their natural nail.)
Why We Love Builder Gel
If we haven’t already made a compelling enough case for builder gel, here’s a quick list of all the things that made us fall in love:
It protects your nails from bending and breaking (like dip powder or acrylic)
It stays on for 2 ½ to 3 weeks (like dip powder or acrylic)
It’s flexible and moves with your nail (unlike dip powder or acrylic)
It won’t yellow or crack (unlike dip powder or acrylic)
You can lay it as thin or as thick as you like
You can use it to extend the length of your nail rather than gluing on a tip
Does Anyone Even Get Regular Nail Polish Anymore?
We get asked this question a lot and the answer is yes! If you like frequent manicures, changing up your color often, and having the option to easily remove the product at home, regular nail polish is still a great option. There’s a product match for every type of person. It all depends on your preferences and the chemistry of your nails. Our nails are like our skin, they may be more oily or more dry, and we need to experiment with which products work best for us. Your lifestyle is an important factor to consider as well. At Luster we have options, and we always do what's best for you. If you’re unsure which product to choose, you can always email us at hello@lusternails.com to set up a consultation.
By Holly Litwiniuk, Founder of Luster Nail Parlour.
Holly has been a Nail Technician since 2017 and a Salon Owner since 2018. She currently resides in Nashville, TN. She made her way to Music City USA in 2007 to chase her dreams as a Songwriter and Recording artist.
Read the full bio here: lusternails.com/about
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